Review: Nobu by the Beach at Atlantis The Royal

With more than 50 restaurants to his name, Nobuyuki “Nobu” Matsuhisa undoubtedly works hard to keep his global brand feeling exclusive and aspirational. It probably helps that legions of A-list stars are big fans of Nobu, and that he chooses equally iconic locations to house his restaurants in. In Atlantis, The Palm, Nobu has been successfully operating for 14 years, having recently elevated its offering (both literally and figuratively), by moving to the hotel’s 22nd floor Bridge Suite. It’s only fitting then, that in neighbouring Atlantis The Royal, Nobu has stepped it up yet again with a first for the brand, a Nobu beach club.

Nobu by the Beach has an indoor space for dining, but the real highlight can be found outside. A multi-level pool spreads across the space surrounded by various sun loungers, day beds and luxury cabanas. It is in one of these stunning cabanas that we find ourselves on a Saturday afternoon, in awe of the luxurious setting. The air-conditioned cabanas are priced from Dhs6,000 (including a welcome platter and a bottle of Champagne) and can fit up to eight guests. Complete with a huge living space, private bathroom with shower and your own shaded terrace, it has everything one could need for the perfect pool day.

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The full restaurant menu is available to order to the cabanas (while a limited pool menu serves the sun loungers), so we get stuck in with starters. From a choice of ceviches, we pick the sea bass coconut (Dhs80), which is traditionally Peruvian in flavour, served in half a coconut. Crunchy dried corn pieces top the dish, which also has cubes of sweet potato, slices of cucumber and more than a hint of chili. Special mention has to go to the surprise dish of the day, the crispy shiitake salad (Dhs90). Sublimely simple, the dish consists of ice gem lettuce, dried shiitake mushrooms, but it’s the lashings of goma truffle dressing that really takes it to the next level.

The vibe of Nobu by the Beach is more subdued than we expected, although its website does describe it as a ‘haven of relaxation’. So, don’t expect party vibes at this chic poolside spot. A DJ plays chilled house music throughout the day, which gets a little louder in the afternoon, but the cabanas also have the option to hook up your own music to the TV. Regular sun loungers are priced at Dhs250 per person from Monday to Thursday and Dhs300 from Friday to Sunday (non-redeemable), while Day Beds are Dhs1,000 per couple on all days.

What’s On Verdict: A chic pool day that oozes luxury and lives up to the brand’s coveted name.

Nobu by the Beach, Atlantis The Royal, Palm Jumeirah, daily 9am to 7pm. Tel: (0)4 426 0760. nobubythebeach.com

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