Restaurant Review: Les Dangereux at Mamsha Al Saadiyat

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Candle-style lighting and gastronomic grandeur illuminate your hospitality experience at Mamsha Al Saadiyat’s newest opening, Les Dangereux. This swanky, art-gallery style dining experience from chef Soo Yong “James” Kim will have you wondering where to begin when you’re heading home dazzled at the end of the evening.

When we’re done snapping pictures and our pupils begin returning to original size, we’re seated by efficient staff whose quiet confidence echoes the culinary might behind this soft-opened Abu Dhabi dining concept. Our hosts are quick to highlight that we’re about to embark on a dining experience studded with a series of brief nibbles akin to “how royalty like to be fed”. “You might order the same thing the next time you’re here, but you’ll be served a different version”, we’re told, as a barley-based shot is presented before us as a welcome drink. Their chefs’ expertise and instinct drive the innovation that arrives at our table.

The dangerously exciting spread includes three variations of their menu, La Vegetarienne (Dhs450), Le Excursion (Dhs500), and the titanic Le Voyage, on which a first-class ticket is priced at Dhs1,000.

Up first, their ‘new Arabia cuisine’ concept introduces us to a saffron cigar with custard to get things started. We’re quickly on to a lamb bite with caviar, and then succulent scallop that comes apart the moment it makes contact with our palates. Empty plates are swiftly whisked away, and we’re presented with a creation of camembert, saffron and Spanish tortilla, alongside a crunchy potato sphere. The creativity truly delights, and we’d be lying if we said mindfulness isn’t a challenge as we eagerly anticipate the arrival of the next carefully curated creation. Peas, baby corn, wild garlic sauce and ravioli pasta arrive, with minimalistic design and maximal taste. For beverages, we’re served a house-made Mexican cocktail with a signature spiced rim, and a few mind-altering bites later, a pisco chicharamuda, a Peruvian coconut pisco-spiced cocktail.

Transparency is literally and figuratively a huge deal at Les Dangereux. Head Chef James steps away from the fire and arrives through big glass doors delivering full views of the chefs in action, for a chat. “Some chefs can be quick to judge the customer.” “I generally try to follow an approach of not following trends, but also not judging them. While it is important for me to understand my customers, I’m also not going to impose my own ideas of what good food should be to them. I’m really just trying to take them on a journey.” We thought Le Journey was art. Turns out there’s a science to it.

What’s On Verdict: If you’re unable to decide on whether you want to enjoy an upscale dinner, take in spellbinding art or enjoy pampering on a plate for your next big celebration, come by Les Dangereux, where all three await.

Les Dangereux, Mamsha Al Saadiyat, Saadiyat Island, Abu Dhabi, 6pm to 12am, Tues to Sun. Tel: (0)50 977 2774. @dangereux.ae

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